Fussen

On our way, we stopped for lunch at a cute restaurant decorated Bavarian style – lots of ornately carved wood – very comforting.  Signs all over the place announcing “SPARGEL!”  What’s Spargel?, we asked.  Asparagus! was the answer.  Mid May to mid June all German restaurants have a separate menu celebrating asparagus. The menu offered asparagus every which way except dessert.  We’re not talking green asparagus.  This is white asparagus about the diameter of your thumb.  Anzie ordered a delicious spargel with Bearnaise sauce, and smoky Black Forest ham.  I, the traditionalist, ate bratwurst.  Exquisite!

We arrived at Casa Fussen, and were greeted by Dora, the owner.  Dora is Portuguese, who came to Fussen one summer to learn German.  Then she met Andy, and the rest is history.  Our apartment was perfect: located right in the middle of town on a quiet street, well-furnished kitchen (including great coffee).  Our digs were comfortably sized with separate bedroom, kitchen/dining room and bathroom. 

Fussen is Bavaria at its cutest.  Building exteriors are decorated with frescoes depicting scenes anywhere from fascist to floral, depending upon the age.  Many stores display Bavarian clothing for sale: dirndls and lederhosen – expensive!  An ancient castle overlooks the town.  Fussen lies at the southern end of the “Romantic Road”.  The town was famous for producing lutes and violins.  We were surprised at the number of Asian restaurants.  (See fascist mural below painted 1935.)

Speaking of which, we were amazed at the number of Asian tourists we came across at any tourist site.  Although we were close to Mad Ludwig’s castle, Neuschwanstein, we visited it from a distance because of the crowds.  This is the castle that Walt Disney used as a model for the Disneyland castle.  Although it looks ancient, it was completed at about the same time as the Eiffel Tower.  Ludwig wanted to outdo his father’s nearby castle, Hohenchwangau.  He also built another one copying Versailles.  His building spree was bankrupting the country when he was declared mentally unfit to continue as king.  He died in questionable circumstances shortly after being dethroned.  He lived in his dream castle a total of 172 days.                                                                                                        

Back to Fussen:  We dined at two memorable restaurants.  The first was Schenke & Wirtshaus.  Chuck wasn’t sated with wurst yet.  So he dined on bratwurst (“brat” means grilled), sauerkraut, and spaeztle. It was the best of the wurst.  Anzie had a delectable pork stew.

The next night we ate at a restaurant two doors down from S&W, called Ritterstub’n.  There we ordered a local specialty: perch pike.  Medallions of fish are lightly breaded and served with a creamy herb sauce. 

We used Fussen as a base from which we explored the area.  One day we visited  Oberammergau, famous for its Passion Play.  The Play is put on every tenth year; the next one is scheduled for 2020.  Rick Steves claims this town is overrun with tourists.  Not so in early May.  We were almost the only ones in town.  Rick also describes it as “the Shirley Temple of Bavarian villages” … wearing “too much makeup”.  Rick has perhaps become too jaded due to his many travels.  Oberammergau is definitely worth a visit.  A town of 5000, it feels smaller.  

What struck us was the number of shops featuring woodcarving.  The pieces, mostly of a religious theme, are of excellent quality.  If you don’t have a nativity scene, here’s the place to start one.  Here’s me teeing off with “Woody”.    

St. Peter and Paul’s Church is worth a visit.  Here life-sized, gilded woodcarvings of saints surround you.  The domed ceilings are covered with frescoes depicting the two saints at significant points in their lives.  One poignant scene shows the two of them saying goodbye to each other on the last day of their lives.  Yes, they died on the same day.  Peter was crucified upside down; Paul was beheaded.  Look closely below. On the left you will see a halo without a head!

 We didn’t visit the Passion Play theater/museum.  Back in 1633 plagues broke out throughout Europe.  The townspeople promised God that, if they were spared, they would put on a play every ten years depicting the suffering, death and resurrection of Christ.  Over 400 years the Oberammergauers are sticking to their pledge.  The next one is scheduled for 2020.  Next, on to the Tirol region of Austria, with a rather beery visit to Munich.

A la prochaine,