Lake Como and Lecco

Lecco? Never heard of it?

After three wonderful months exploring southwestern France and northern Spain, we left our base in Narbonne and launched our six-week journey through central Europe. Eight and a half hours driving time brought us to Lecco in northern Italy. Why Lecco? It was a convenient stopover. We knew nothing about the town except that it lay on Lake Como. The lake is shaped like an inverted “Y”. The town of Como sits on the base of the western leg; whereas, the town of Lecco anchors the eastern leg.

I had visited Como with sister Kate and brother Kevin in 1962. I’ll never forget the sight of this pristine lake surrounded by the Italian Alps. I remember diving off a dock into the crystal water, and surfacing with toilet paper on my head. So much for pristine Lake Como! I also recall that my parents stayed at a famous resort on the lake, Villa d’Este. Hoping to retrace their steps, I contacted the resort for a reservation. The price brought me back to reality: $600./night! So, we settled for an AirBnB in Lecco at $80/night.

As we approached Lecco, we knew we were in for a treat. The Alps surrounding the lake are, how can words describe them, “Majestic”? “Awe-inspiring”? Here we were on May 1 and ample snow still covered many of the 4,000 ft.+ peaks. And yet, those peaks seemed so near. It looks like you could climb them in twenty minutes. Not!!

After settling into our comfortable, conveniently located digs at Monsignor Polvara 31— known only by the address — with the help of owner Frederico and his mother, we decided to explore. We ended up at the busy waterfront. No cruise ships here! Only water taxis and tour boats maxing out at about 40 passengers. One tour boat, shaped like a 40 ft. long green dragon, is named “Loch Ness”. We had a drink at a sidewalk café while we absorbed the charming atmosphere. The sidewalk opposite the lakefront was lined with classy hotels, bars and restaurants. One block back we discovered a plaza and pedestrian-only street lined with more of the same.

We decided to find a restaurant at another lakefront area that Frederico had recommended. We found Barcaiolo resting right on the lake. As local as you can get. Wonderful food. Superb ambiance. I had cheese risotto with grilled perch filets. Anzie had a garlic oil and cheese pizza with the most delicate of crusts.

The next morning we returned to the lakefront to take a boat tour. Frederico gave us coupons good for a 20% discount. We had coffee at a café right next to the boat launch entrance, so we were the first on the boat. We hurried to the stern so we could grab seats out of the wind but with great views of either side. The boat was a ferry – no commentary – just stops all along the lake, which was fine with us. We had a map. We just enjoyed the fantastic scenery on a blessedly clear, sunny day. Crystal blue sky – we could see every bit of those mountains. Here were these colorful villages climbing up these steep mountainsides. Some of the houses seemed to be located in places impossible to reach, with no sign of a road. We discussed our next trip, which would be a week long. We would stay with Frederico one night; then, taking one small overnite bag, we would ferry up and down both sides of the “Y”, stopping overnight at pre-selected ports.

Our destination this day was Bellagio, undoubtedly the inspiration for the famous Las Vegas hotel/casino. The village sits on the point between the two legs of the “Y”. Definitely a spot whose only income source is tourism. Yet, few signs of tackiness. It sits on the side of a mountain. Around the port are countless cafés, restaurants, high and middle-end vendors of art, clothing, jewelry, etc. If you climb a series of steps, you arrive at other walking streets parallel to the port, with more of the same.

We selected a restaurant that bordered the second rank of steps we had climbed, and we weren’t disappointed. Antichi Saporo offered us great pasta with a “demi” carafe of excellent wine.

Used to be in the States of the 70’s-80’s one could order a carafe of wine in almost any restaurant of even moderate repute. The source was gallon bottles, usually of Gallo. For some reason this offering was eliminated and replaced by wine by the glass or bottle. Now we have some fine offerings coming out by the box. I’m sure that the box, with its ever-shrinking inner bladder is the source for the carafe wine offered by restaurants throughout western Europe. It’s an excellent value. I hope it returns to the U.S. restaurant market soon.

A la Porchaine – Chuck

Lake Como