Laos

Southeast Asia cont’d – Laos 

Laos

Located across the Mekong River north of Thailand, Laos has a colorful and tragic history. It was colonized by France., part of Indochina.  In 1964 the US began its air war over Laos, bombing and strafing Communist positions, eventually extending all along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. According to official figures, the US dropped over two million tons of bombs over Laos. The total cost was US$ 7.2 billion, or US$2 million a day for nine years. This, based upon the “Domino Theory”? Not until a ceasefire went into effect in Jan. 1973 could the fighting end in Laos.

In 1975 the government was taken over by Communists, the Pathet Lao.  Initially, the Communists forced all citizens to leave their homes and walk south.  No one knew the destination.  Eventually most everyone made it back to their homes, only to discover that their homes had been ransacked, with their most cherished items stolen.  The new government made great promises, which they never fulfilled.  The best leaders had escaped across the river to Thailand.  The “leaders” who were left had no idea what they were doing.  Those who complained were sent to “re-education camps”. They would often return with broken bones and fewer teeth, if they returned at all. 

We flew to the ancient capital, Luang Prabang, where we met our local guide, Suk.  He is a forty-year-old former Buddhist monk.  Anne described him as handsome.  

L.P. is considered one of Southeast Asia’s best-preserved towns.  Located on a peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers surrounded by green mountains. After settling into our hotel, the Parasol Blanc, we took a walking tour of the neighborhood.  We dined at a local bakery.  One of the items we sampled was grilled “chicken feet”.  Yuk! Never again!

One morning we had to arise at 5:00 AM to partake of an “alms giving” ceremony.  It was still dark when we mounted the bus at our hotel.  We were dropped off on a city street that was already lined with bystanders.  We were given chairs along the street, along with copper bowls filled with “sticky” rice.  We were asked to roll the rice into small balls.  It wasn’t long before we spied a line of monks wearing their saffron robes coming toward us, each carrying a bowl.  The first group were middle-aged.  The next group were younger – ages estimated at 20 – 40.  The next group were much younger – novitiates – ages teens to as young as seven.  It was a silent ceremony.  Not a word passed between us, only the occasional nod.  But the nod was enough.  See photo of monks and a monk in the temple gathering the alms.  Suk our guide is explaining the process to us.  The monks buy no food and rely 100% on the donations.

We then entered a temple behind us.  Of course we had to remove our shoes before entering.  We took seats in the front facing the “altar”.  On the risen platform was our guide, Suk, and a monk.  He appeared to be about 25-30 years of age, a bit flabby, as if he had not participated in sports for some time, if ever.  He described his life as a monk, as translated by Suk.  We could ask him anything we wanted, eg., “Do monks wear underpants?”  He valued the education he received and the routine of the monastery.  He’d been there since he was a child.

Everything was reasonably priced.  Perhaps the economy is still experiencing the aftermath of the vicious takeover, changing from a monarchy to Communist rule.

By the way, take a look at the rate of exchange between the various currencies that we handled:

One U.S. dollar =  34 Thai Baht

                              21870 Laotian Kip

                              4001 Cambodian Riels

                              25,455 Vietnamese Dong

                              8 Hong Kong $

The amazing variation would imply some serious inflation going on.  Both Vietnam and Hong Kong accept $US.

Back to our tour: Before we left for our morning tour, we were given a list of food items that we would prepare and eat later on that day. The list was written in the local language.  We visited an outdoor market.  It was huge! We gave our lists to the vendors, then paid the amounts they asked.  We trusted them.

Among other things, Laos is famous for its pepper.  The vendors displayed three different categories: A, B, and C – A being the highest class.  We bought bags of A.  Laos is also famous for cashews.  Only one class here: Great!  We bought bags.

We sampled Dragon Fruit: white with poppy-like seeds encased in a persimmon-red rind.  Tastes like pear.  Also Jack Fruit..  Big.  Size of cantaloupe.  Orange pulp tastes sweet.

Have you ever heard of Durian? Nor had we.  It’s a pale green fruit the size of a small honeydew.  The pulp is a soft pale green with a taste that is difficult to describe … semi-sweet, semi-funky.  What we do know is that hotels don’t allow it in the rooms, because the downside of the fruit is it smells like rotten garbage.

We stayed away from the insect vendors.  More on that later.

The next morning we took a jumbo, like a tuk tuk,, but bigger – carries up to seven passengers.– to the Mekong River – one of the longest rivers in the world.  We boarded a traditional wooden boat.  On our way to the Pak Ou Cave, we stopped at a village to learn how to make more gourmet treats.  The first was “dried river weed snack”, consisting of weed, sesame seeds, garlic and tomato.  Dried on a screen, it has the texture of a thin cracker.  We also observed the making of rice cakes, also a vehicle for carrying assorted condiments to one’s mouth.

The Pak Ou Cave is another miracle of nature.  One enters the caves directly from the river, climbing steps to multi-levels of cavern.  The enclosing rock was eroded to almost knife-blade thinness.  The caves house hundreds of Buddha statues.

We visited a grammar school where children of the Hmong tribe are schooled.  It is one of several schools funded by OAT’s Grand Circle Foundation.  The children enthralled as well as entertained us.  After, we had lunch accompanied by shots of rice whiskey.  For dessert we were entertained by the mayor playing a wooden wind instrument while dancing.

Next stop – Vientiane

We took a high-speed train to Laos’ capital. Lots of beautiful countryside.  Lots of tunnels – high mountains everywhere. Vientiane is Laos’ economic engine thanks to foreign investment.  Our hotel, the Sabaidee (Lao for “Hello/Welcome), lies in a busy section of town. 

After exploring the neighborhood, we split into two groups of eight and were chauffeured by cars to a family’s house for dinner.  Another fine experience of immersion into native life!  The two young daughters went to dancing school where they were learning native dance, including that fascinating skill of bending their hands back until they almost touched the backs of their wrists.  I tried to duplicate the motion.  I couldn’t get to 90 degrees.  

We assisted in making dinner: green papaya salad with lime and garlic, a spicy minced pork with mint, sticky rice and boiled bok choy.

We shared conversations about our backgrounds.  The family was very open and forthcoming.  The mother displayed a beautiful cloth that her mother had woven.  An enriching experience in more ways than one.

The next day we visited Wat Sisaket, the oldest Buddhist monastery in Laos, featuring almost 7000 images of Buddha in wood, stone and bronze.  Niches full of tiny buddhas. “Here a Buddha, there a Buddha, everywhere a Buddha Buddha”!

Next we visited the COPE Center (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise)  This is a museum dedicated to the victims – past, present and future – of unexploded devices (UXO’s) that were dropped over Laos during the Vietnam war.  Judging from a map that showed the areas bombed, few spots escaped. In fact, more bombs were dropped in Laos than any other country in the world. The bombing was concentrated mostly along the Ho Chi Minh Trail.  Who did the bombing? The U.S.!  The pilots dropped their extra bombs, so their planes were lighter when arriving back in Thailand.  The Lao call it the secret war.  Below is a map of Laos.  The green and red spots are bombing sites

A middle-aged farmer with two prosthetic lower legs explained his tragic history.  He also displayed various bomb types.  One was a “cluster” bomb – a round metal ball that contained many small bombs.  I could only imagine the damage that one of these could cause.  

This organization and several others are still sweeping the land for bombs.  A 2000lb. bomb was recently detected just outside a schoolyard.  When bombs were dropped during the rainy season, they often sunk in the mud without detonating.  We discovered a peculiar organization, Apopo  This group specializes in training rats and dogs to sniff out UXO’s.  The training period is extensive – sometimes almost 2 years.  But the rats were very good at detection.  Anzie has adopted a hero rat for both herself and our grandson from Apopo.com at $9.00 a month.  They both get monthly updates of how many UXOs our rat, Ronin, finds each month.  Then, once the land is clear, farmers are given the land and receive seed and assistance.  Each rat is about the size of a cat, and none has ever died in duty.

Instead of visiting the rats we elected to attend a Puppet Show.  Put on by professionals, the puppets, the puppeteering and the several plots exceeded expectations.  A night tour of downtown Vientiane with lighted fountains and monuments.  The night ended at a restaurant with a Lao show of dancing and music.

The next day we flew to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.  Story and photos to follow.

A la prochaine – Chuck and Anzie