Valentine’s Day

View through an arched window showing a domed building and plants.

Meet Fernando. He’s a man of many talents. He makes Pre-Hispanic musical instruments. He also plays them with a group. He teaches mathematics at the local school. He’s also a guide, and that’s how we met him.  We had heard about Mineral de Pozos shortly after we arrived in San Miquel de Allende (SMA). We…

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Jalpan de Serra and the Franciscan chapels of Mexico

Historic church with a bell tower surrounded by a white fence and palm tree.

The mission church in Jalpan’s center, today known as the Santiago Apóstol Church, is an excellent place to begin touring. Built between 1751 and 1758 by the indefatigable Fray Junípero Serra, this was the first of the Sierra Gorda missions. Take some time to examine the details of its earthy façade. The first section features…

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How a Rug Turns into a Wonderful Memory   March 2015

Woman weaving traditional fabric on a loom.

Meet Hilario. He’s a weaver from Oaxaca. The state of Oaxaca lies to the south of Mexico City. Its southern border is the Pacific. Many of Mexico’s popular crafts are produced in and around the capital city, Oaxaca (pronounced wahaka): terra cotta miniatures, glossy black and green pottery, alebrijes – wood sculptures of fantastical creatures…

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Edward James’ Folly – La Pozas 2012

A whimsical sculpture of a fantastical creature in a lush garden.

Look what we found in the jungle of East Central Mexico. It’s a series of surreal structures, a cement garden. Located just outside the village of Xilitla (pronounced heleetlah) Las Pozas is the semi-fulfilled dream of Edward James, a multi-millionaire Englishman with some royal blood coursing through his veins. Built between 1964 and his death…

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Blood and Silver March 2016

People exploring an underground cave with a ladder leading up.

Blood and silver make for a toxic blend. Looking at the history of the Spanish conquest of North Central Mexico reminds one of the “blood diamonds†of Sierra Leone, Africa. In the early 1500’s Spanish troops under the leadership of Hernan Cortez marched north from Mexico City to an area that is now the State…

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What’s to Like and Not to Like in French Culture

Sunlit garden with potted plants and lush green hedge.

May 2019 Cleanliness:  We always thought of Switzerland and Germany as the epitomes of outdoor cleanliness.  Those countries have nothing on France.  The landscaping is immaculate.  Tall hedges are popular.  Our house looks out onto 8’ – 10’ square-cut hedges.  Throughout the country we find well-clipped hedges up to 15 ft. extending around public areas. …

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The Cathars – A Short History

Historic Gothic-style church tower with intricate stone carvings and statues.

The first battle of the Crusade against the Cathars occurred in Beziers, close to the Spanish border.  Arnaud Amaury, a Cistercian abbot designated to lead the Crusade, had arranged his men outside of the city walls to lay siege to the town.  The men of Beziers were confidentthat their fortifications were secure.  Harsh words were…

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